We've read a lot about the Bernese Oberland on the internet and in our guide book. This is a region of Switzerland east of Lac Leman that is home to many of the famous parts of the Swiss alps, and fortunately for us is just next door to the region we're staying in (the Vaud region). Not tiring yet of the mountains here, we wanted to explore the Oberland a bit and maybe plan an overnighter to limit the amount of driving we'd have to do in one day. One problem that we anticipated was the crowds - since the beginning of August, it seems that all of Europe is on holidays in Switzerland. (The strange thing is that we've encountered much fewer Canadians/Americans than we have during our previous times in Europe.) For this reason, we were hoping to find a destination that wasn't in bold print and large font in any of the Switzerland guide books. Corinne had suggested to us a place called Brienz, at the east of a lake called Brienzersee, where you can take a steam train up to a peak called the Rothorn Kulm. It sounded really nice, and better yet our guide book reserved only a sentence or two describing it. And of course, recommendations from the locals haven't yet led us astray.We went, and here's what we saw...
When we looked Brienz-Rothorn up on the internet, we discovered that there was actually a hotel at the top of the mountain. Rates for simple rooms with bunk beds were actually pretty reasonable AND breakfast was included. At first we were hoping for a two-night stay, but the weather forecast was a bit ominous so we thought we'd bank on just one (a good move, as it turned out). Unbelievably, there was space for us when we called for reservations 3 days before. More unbelievably, when we arrived we discovered that we had a whole floor to ourselves. Imagine the excitement for Lucia...a bunk bed at the very top of a mountain. It doesn't get any better.
We weren't so sure when we got to the train station that we had made the right decision. Train boarding was the most un-Swiss experience we've had here - probably at least in part due to the travelers from other countries. (Us meek Canadians don't do well in anything but single-file line-ups.) But once we were on our way, our grumpy faces quickly changed to smiles. Again, we were amazed at where trains can travel in this country. Unfortunately we weren't pulled by one of the steam engines still operating on this rail line, but the diesel that pulled us definitely had to work to get us up the steep grade.
I know I'm repeating myself, but again we couldn't believe that we saw cows and hear their bells ringing the entire way to the summit. In the second photo up, you can just barely see a few of them (as specks) in the middle of the lower third of the frame (I'm looking down on the rail line and they are above it). One misstep and you'd see a big mass of beef rolling right down to the bottom. These are steep, steep hills. (It's hard to believe, but the lake really was that emerald green colour - it looked absolutely surreal.)Above is the summit, where our hotel and the restaurant was situated. Nice spot to grab a bite. We had dinner and breakfast here, but unfortunately had to eat inside for both (too cold for dinner, and too rainy for breakfast).
Below is a shot of one of the ubiquitous sign posts marking walking trails with distances. You hardly need a map in Switzerland with all the good signage here, from the roads to the hiking trails. I'm not sure what kind of birds those are, but they flew up the hillside into the frame just as I was getting ready to shoot.
After a short walk to the summit, we all take a rest. (I think Elias had found a dog to pet, also. Bow-wow.)
It was a beautiful day when we arrived on the Rothorn. In the late afternoon, after we had stowed our bags in our room, we set out to explore some of the trails at the top. Unfortunately, Lucia had her first encounter with an alpine bee who decided to leave his mark on her cheek. I still remember my first bee sting, and I think worse than the pain itself is the surprise of it. There were quite a few tears, but nothing that a Mommy's comfort can't take care of.By this time, Elias had fallen asleep in our "baby backpack" (aka the sleep machine). As long as you keep going with it on Elias will sleep, so keep going I did, while Danielle brought Lucia back to our room. I followed a trail along a very steep ridge out to a point where the ridge got even steeper. I turned back at this point for supper, but I sure wish I knew how this trail turned out. Besides the sound of my own feet on the trail, I only heard two sounds the whole time I was walking - the occasional chugging of the steam train heading up or down the hill and the constant ringing of the cowbells coming from the hills below. We're going to try and record this sound before we head for home - it's the Swiss equivalent of the hypnotizing sound of water lapping on a shore.
Here's Lucia and I peeking out the window of our room. Just hours earlier the picnic table in front of the window (and all the other tables around it) were full of travelers. After the last train of the day, the place almost completely cleared out.
Danielle, Elias, and his animals in our room. Elias can quite accurately make the sounds of cows, sheep, dogs, cats, and horses now. Pig sounds, the most complex, have not yet been mastered.
Just as forecasted, the rains began in the evening (with yet another thunderstorm), and continued when we woke up the next morning. We would have liked more time to explore the trails and to see the view from the top (we woke up in a cloud), but at least the previous day was beautiful. Breakfast was fantastic (yogurt, muesli, cheese, croissants - all of the good stuff) and the restaurant was a cozy place to huddle, while the rain fell outside.
One of the managers of the hotel/restaurant took a special interest in Lucia and Elias and set up toys and colouring supplies at a separate table. Lucia's bee sting was a thing of the past and she had a great time making a picture for the train conductor. (Elias doesn't sit still like his. I think he was running around the dining room, providing entertainment for an older German couple.)More rain on the drive home. Coincidentally, our drive home took us near the Cailler chocolate factory in Broc. Funny thing - we found ourselves in their parking lot again. It's good to break up a long drive, you know.
